Lofoten Island Itinerary: Road Trip Guide for First Time Visitors
Ballstad Sunset, Lofoten Islands, Norway
✓ Fish
✓ Fjords
✓ Fantastic views
✓ Finally making it North of the Arctic Circle
If you’re looking to cross this combination off of your bucket list, then you must visit the Lofoten Islands.
The Lofoten Islands are a beautiful archipelago nestled in the northern part of Norway.
I remember learning the word “archipelago” in school and memorizing the spelling. Perhaps if they had focused more on encouraging us to visit archipelagoes and not just on spelling the word, it would not have taken us 30 years to get here.
This trip was exciting for many reasons, one of them being that visiting the Lofoten islands marked the farthest north either of us had ever travelled on the globe.
On our first day in this beautiful bunch of islands, we met local artist Thor Erdahl. We spent over an hour in conversation with him at his studio and gallery and mentioned something about “my friends who live up North”.
My “farthest North” is just Thor’s home while his friends live truly on the edge of habitable land. It was a striking reminder of the relativity of life!
About the Lofoten Islands
The Lofoten Islands have a long and storied history with signs of human life dating back over 11,000 years. The majority of the artifacts from the area date back to the Viking days, and the information collected allows a better modern day understanding of these historic sea-faring people.
Having their lives and livelihood strongly impacted by their being surrounded by water, you will not be surprised to learn that fishing plays a key part of the local economy both historically and in the present day.
You cannot walk the villages of the Lofoten islands without seeing rows and rows of fish hanging out to dry as the Lofoten weather is perfect for their preservation. I recommend buying some of the locally dried fish for a road trip snack!
Visiting the Lofoten Islands is a modern experience with the ability to take many views into the past.
How to get to Lofoten Islands
Getting to the Lofoten Islands is an experience in itself; but with a hop, skip and a jump you will find yourself in one of the most enchanting places in the world.
You can arrive in the Lofoten Islands by car, ferry or airplane. You’ll want to plan carefully and research the routes and modes of transportation you plan to take as there are often delays. There is not a “right way” to get to Lofoten, but it will depend on your budget and how much time you have.
We arrived at the Lofoten Islands by plane… three planes that is!
London to Oslo > Oslo to Bodø > Bodø to Svolvær
Your longest haul will be getting to Oslo and then it’s a quick 1.5 hours to Bodø and then 30 minutes to Svolvær.
Wideroe flight from Bodø to Svolvær
There are limited flights and ferries each day, so you’ll want to ensure you align your itinerary accordingly!
To ensure we didn’t miss the third flight, we chose to stay overnight in Bodø. The airport is quite small and is only a 15 minute walk down to the harbor and city center. Traveling across the Arctic Cicrle wasn’t our only “first'' on this trip. It was also our first time to walk to and from the airport into the city.
Walking back on our return home it was even snowing a bit but we still chose to walk over hiring a taxi. Unlike large commercial airports which remain open for the majority of the day,
If you also plan an overnight stay before a flight out of Bodø, note that the airport only opens around an hour before the first flight out that day. On our return home we walked to the airport in the snow and weren’t able to enter the airport for more than 30 minutes so we took refuge in a covered bus stop!
Renting a car on The Lofoten Islands
While there are public buses which will take you around the island, the best way to see the island is by renting a car and driving yourself.
Three key reasons we recommend a rental car over the bus:
Easy Pick Up & Drop Off
Unlike many airports where you need to take a shuttle to the off-site car rental lot, the rental cars are available within a 30 second walk from the airport door in Svolvær. The parking lot of the airport is roughly the same size as a restaurant in a suburban area in the United States! Drop off and pick up took less than a few minutes each.
Control Over your Time and Itinerary
Renting your own car gives you the flexibility to control your own transit time and destinations! Some of our favorite experiences on the trip were when we saw a beautiful view and pulled the car over on the side of the road to take photos and videos. You don’t have this when you’re on a public bus route.
Personal Space and Storage
Whether it’s layers to protect you from the cold or beach blankets and hiking gear to explore the summer, you’ll want to have an accessible place to store your belongings while moving about the different villages throughout the island. We never had any issues finding parking across all of our destination villages and sites visited.
When you should visit Lofoten Islands
“Beauty is in the eye of the beholder”
Does the beauty you are looking for include unending days, warm breezy hikes and a dip in the water?
Or does a snow capped mountain, a hot cup of cocoa and the chance to view the northern lights more appeal to you?
While I think Norway is beautiful all year round, you will have a very different experience based on the season in which you visit.
Late May to Mid-July: You’ll get to experience the midnight sun, a period of time where the sun does not set below the horizon. If you’re looking to get in some extra hours of productivity, this may be the time for you. Don’t forget to bring an eye mask, though!
Mid-June through late August: These are considered the best months to visit if you’re looking for that warm, sunny feeling. If you visit during late May to mid-July
Winter: Unless you’re looking for a nice long slumber, I don’t recommend visiting in the deep winter as you’ll have few waking hours in the daylights. We spoke with several locals who travel to warmer climes during the winter to escape this cold dark season.
Catching the Northern Lights: The intensity of the Northern Lights changes throughout the season and it’s recommended to visit in October or February through the first half of March.
We visited during the first week of April over Easter Weekend and the following week. We were lucky to catch some of the last appearances of Northern Lights for the season. As a warm weather girl, this was a perfect balance for me. We drove through snow covered mountains but also benefited from longer, sunny days thanks to daylight savings.
Northern Lights from Reine, Lofoten Islands, Norway
Lofoten Island Itinerary
The season in which you visit Lofoten will influence your activities in Lofoten and how much time you’ll want to budget in each location.
If you’re looking to visit several different villages throughout the islands and get a great sense of the landscape and the culture, I would suggest at least 4 days on Lofoten.
If you’re looking to spend longer times exploring the villages, taking hikes or spending the day at the beach, you could spend a week or longer diving deeper.
Considering the trek it is to finally get there make sure you budget enough time to enjoy everything on your list and leave time for open exploring as well. I wouldn’t pack a tight agenda so that you have flexibility to turn into unknown paths and explore anything which you find exciting along the way.
Here is our 4 Day Itinerary:
Day 1:
Arrive Svolvær, rent a car and drive to Kabelvåg; stop at the Hjornet Cafe for a coffee and a delicious snack, walk a few blocks to see Lille Kabelvåg Art Gallery and then walk or drive just up the hill to see the King Øystein Magnusson Viking Statue and a stunning view of the city.
On your way south to Henninsgvaer you’ll drive through winding mountain roads and drive over a series of short bridges to arrive on a small island on the south side of the archipelago.
Road to Henningsvær, Lofoten Islands, Norway
Check out their famous football (soccer) field which juts out on a peninsula, catch a glimpse of their wooden A-frame structures used to dry the locally caught cod. We enjoyed a great seafood dinner in front of the fireplace at Fiskekrogen which overlooks a small channel with local fishing boats. You’ll find a selection of cute local boutiques and cafes for shopping and even a few art galleries.
Drive to the further stretch of the island and have the opportunity to stay in a Rorbuer, or Fisherman’s cabin, for a quaint experience in part of a historic piece of local architecture.
Day 2:
Drive to Unstad, a beach town known for drawing surfers from around the world. You’ll definitely need a wetsuit as the water temperatures range from a few degrees above freezing in the spring and between 11- 14 C or 51-59 F in the summer. If you’re willing to brave the waters, you’ll find a surf shop where you can rent boards and wetsuits, or if you’re looking to enjoy the area and not risk frostbite.
For breakfast or lunch, I recommend Unstad Arctic Surf’s cafe which boats “World’s Best Cinnamon Buns''. I had one and I think they might be right in their claim. Your waiter might even be a surfing instructor like ours was.
From Unstad head to the famous Haukland Beach, voted one of the best in Norway, located on the North side of Vestvågøy island. It’s easy to park and walk down to the crescent shaped beach in this cozy bay. I’m a sucker for climbing around on beach rocks, an activity available even when there is a layer of snow covering the sand just meters from where the tide breaks. Despite the fact that it was just below freezing, we spent about an hour hopping around the rocks and playing in the novel combination of snow and sand.
Enjoy the journey as you continue down the islands and make your way to Ballstad. It’s a cute little town where you can walk the local street and get a sense of residential Lofoten. Most of the houses are colors of condiments; painted with a narrow selection of ketchup red, honey mustard or something between mayonnaise or aioli.
You’re welcome to take a dip in the water, many of the locals do, but you may also want to take advantage of the dry sauna instead!
You’ll have a few options for dinner, but I recommend getting a table at Solsiden Lofoten an hour before sunset. You’ll have an amazing meal and be positioned to see a stunning sunset drop like liquid behind the town and behind the mountain. This was our most stunning sunset of the trip!
Fun Fact: I posted an Instagram story from Ballstad and learned that a friend of mine had met the owner of the Restaurant we ate on a previous trip in Vietnam. Small world!
Day 3:
You’ll have some of the most stunning views on the drives today! Head from Ballstad to Nusfjord and make sure you stop and take in the views at Flakstadøya.
Nusfjord is a little fishing village on the southern shore and was my personal favorite of the villages themselves. Their old general store is now run as a cafe and had the most immaculate vibes and tasty pastries and drinks. There is a pizza shop Oriana Kro that is open for lunch and Karoline Restaurant for lunch and dinner. There is an outdoor area facing the water and the mountains which has a very Après-Ski feeling to it. If it were warmer I think I would have lobbied to spend the full day here exploring
From Nusfjord head essentially to the end of the earth, to the village of Å. A short name at the end of the long road. Here you’ll find an outdoor fishing village museum with different buildings to visit to learn more about the history of the town and fishing economy.
Head back to Reine, and just past the city center you’ll find Anita’s seafood for the combination offering of fresh seafood, fresh bakery items and the stunning view of the mountains across the lake! They close early but I highly recommend grabbing a bite to eat while taking in the views from their glass encased dining room.
Anita’s Seafood with Mountain Views, Sakrisøy, Lofoten Islands
We stayed just a minute's walk away at the Olstind in Sakrisøy. It’s an absolutely beautiful property with a huge window that frames the lake and mountain behind. This was the first night on the trip where we saw the Northern lights dancing across the mountains - really special!
Day 4:
There is only one main road which you can take from Svolvær down to Å which means the artery and the vein are the same. As we retraced our route in reverse, we felt that in only 3 days the islands had transformed. Seeing the landscape appear from the opposite direction gives you not only a different physical viewpoint but a different appreciation. We saw the mountains and the water in different lighting and as the temperature warmed we saw an area of green and brown life poking through which days before were blanketed in snow.
Making our way back we had two key destinations in mind, our only real “tourist” activities planned.
First up the Lofotr Viking Museum located just near the halfway point on the drive back. You have the opportunity to visit a proper museum area with artifacts and informational videos to learn more about the Vikings lives, but the best part was visiting the Chieftain's house located just behind the museum. This is a reconstructed long house which would house one ruling family and their supporting staff of around 40 total. We met artisans who practice leather shoemaking and wood carving in the traditional viking style. We talked with the shoe marker for a long time - he has only worn his own hand made shoes for seven years, including when he goes skiing, which are done on old wooden skis that he essentially ties his leather boots onto. Wild!
From the Viking Museum we made our way to the Lofoten Aquarium. There are three reasons that we had to make this visit
Otter Eddie, Otter Målfrid, and the fact that we like aquariums!
Eddie the Otter at Lofoten Aquarium
Their two otters were both orphaned and brought to the aquarium for rehabilitation. They were very sweet and at 3PM you’re able to watch their keepers feed them. They eat huge chunks of fish both on the land and whilst swimming around. They were adorable and though there were two fences between us, we were able to get quite close to admire them.
The aquarium is quite close to Svolvær so we went back to explore the largest town on the Lofoten Islands.
It feels much more like a city than a village, inclusive of a port where cruise ships dock and a shopping mall. We spent the evening exploring the city and resting up for our departing flight from Svolvær back to Bodø the following morning.
Visiting the Lofoten Islands
The Lofoten Islands are a special place and we are really grateful to have experienced witnessing the Northern Lights!
We plan to come back again in the summer, to experience the beautiful hiking, beaches and other warm weather activities when a ski jacket and snow boots are not required!
Have you visited the Lofoten Islands?
If yes, drop us a comment with your favorite spot on the islands. If you haven’t been yet, let us know if this is a destination you would add to your list!
